Description
Kasco recommends replacement of zinc anodes every year or sooner if anode is more than 50% depleted.
A zinc anode is supplied on the shaft of all Kasco equipment for protection from corrosion due to electrolysis. The zinc anode should be inspected regularly and replaced if reduced to half of its original size or if white in color.
Corrosion from electrolysis is more commonly associated with saltwater or brackish water, but as a matter of precaution it is important to periodically check the zinc anode in all installations (at least every two to three months)
Kasco Deicer Zinc Anodes are available for 1/2 hp - 3/4 hp - 1 hp De-icers
FAQ
FAQs
The zinc anode acts as a sacrificial metal, corroding in place of your de-icer’s shaft, prop, and housing. It extends the lifespan of your equipment by protecting against electrolysis and galvanic corrosion.
Inspect it at least once per season. Replace it when more than 50% of the anode is corroded or if it's pitted or breaking apart.
It’s recommended for both. While freshwater causes slower corrosion, electrolysis still occurs, especially around docks with electrical grounding or metal infrastructure.
It clamps around the shaft of your Kasco unit using included hardware. Make sure there’s good metal-to-metal contact, and follow the positioning in your Kasco manual.
Yes. It is compatible with all standard Kasco de-icer units, including 1/2 HP, 3/4 HP, and 1 HP models.
Zinc is ideal for brackish and freshwater. Magnesium is for ultra-pure freshwater, and aluminum is often used in mixed or saltwater systems. For Kasco units, zinc is the preferred material.
Not directly. However, preventing corrosion with an anode can reduce the risk of electrical leakage, which sometimes contributes to GFCI tripping.
Not necessary. One properly installed zinc anode is sufficient. Adding more doesn’t increase protection and may interfere with performance.
Yes. It should be installed in the location recommended by Kasco, usually near the motor housing where metal components are exposed.
If it’s slowly corroding and becoming pitted over time, it’s doing its job. A pristine anode after a full season may mean it's not making good contact or corrosion isn't present